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Build: Windsor Stroker into 2012 Mustang


Table of Contents

if you visit all of the links on your first visit, they will (or should) change colors, so you can tell where you left off on your last site visit. None of the Introduction or Preparation subsections should change after the swap starts, so look for new entries in the Swap section.

The Build Plan
    Introduction
    Engine Mounting
    A/C, or Not?
    Steering
    Driveshaft
    Electrical/Instrumentation
    Throttle
    Fuel System
    Hood Fitment
    Cooling
    Advice - Water Pump Selection
    Advice - Weight Reduction
    Advice - Accessories and Brackets

Preparation
    Introduction
    Engine
    Transmission
    Exhaust
    Fuel System
    Supporting Mods

The Swap (this is where you'll find the most recent entries)
    06 Jul 2014
    19 Jul 2014 - Engine Porn!
    22 Jul 2014 - 427 IN DA HOUSE!
    26 Jul 2014 - Test Fitting
    01 Aug 2014 - Swap Begins - Day 01
    02 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 02
    06 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 03
    07 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 04
    08 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 05
    09 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 06
    10 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 07
    13 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 08
    14 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 09
    15 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 10
    16 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 11
    17 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 12
    20 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 13
    21 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 14
    22 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 15
    25 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 18

Kudos and Call-Outs
    Those Responsible

Parts
    Parts List

Introduction

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

This page describes the process by which I swapped a 351w into my car. I'm starting with a 2012 V6/automatic Mustang with 3.73 gears. The goals:

  • Get that lumpy idle sound that indicates that the car is not to be trifled with
  • Eliminate computer-based tuning from the equation
  • Have a really fast, and unique car

I had originally intended to do a 347, but a friend said for almost the same price, I could do a 408 and end up with a stronger motor that made more horespower with less work on the part of the motor for the same money, so I changed my mind. Next, I had originally decided on a stock block, but after evaluating all the stuff that needs to be done to a stock block pulled out of a salvage yard I figured a Dart SHP block would be a better choice because you get a block that only needs minor prep work to be usable, and you get 4-bolt mains in the deal. This meant I could re-evaluate the displacement, and upgrade in a big way to 427 cubic inches without an appreciable increase in price (other than the cost of the Dart block, of course), since the pistons and rings are the only thing that are different between the 408 and 427. That's where we are today, on 03/15/2014.

Other engine build features are that it will have a zero-balanced forged rotating assembly (RPM or SCAT crank and H-beam rods), AFR 205 aluminum heads, a TrickFlow Stage 3 cam, QuickFuel BDQ-850 carb, and MSD ignition. We're expecting somewhere north of 500HP at the flywheel by the time it's all said and done.

For those interested in pursuing a similar swap, I've included all of the part numbers and sources for those parts at the bottom of the page. I didn't bother including prices because they don't do anything but increase. Suffice it to say that you should expect to spend in excess of $18k on parts and machine shop labor if you buy everything new.

Engine Mounting

There are several methods available for mounting the engine. A couple of companies (BMR and AJE) make K-members specifically for this swap, or you can get mounts from Ford Racing that mount a Windsor on a stock (or tubular version) K-Member. You can also go with motor plates, which allows for the most adjustment in terms of height and front-to-back position, but requires welding and a LOT of measurements. I'm going with the KM012H K-member from BMR. I also found out rather late in the parts buying process that the OEM radiator support brace is not compatible with the BMR k-member, so to retain the chassis stiffness provided by that brace, I had to get their chassis brace (CB004H). BMR suspension parts come in two colors - red and hammertone. Since my color theme revolves around black and aluminum, I chose the hammertone version.

A/C, or Not?

The original plan was to omit A/C from the car because let's face it - the Fox A/C stuff is butt-fuckin' ugly in an otherwise cool looking engine compartment. Besides, not having A/C would save me about $500. Plans - as we know - are often overcome by circumstances beyond your control.

After a couple of days sweating my ass off (almost 100 degrees out), and then getting in my car to go home, I was glad to have A/C. I guess I'm a big pussy afterall, because I've decided to add A/C back to the car as a result. So, I need (three!) brackets, a compressor, and A/C lines, which of course need to be hand-made.

Steering

As most of you probably know, the 2011+ Mustangs are equipped with electric power steering (EPAS). The steering rack is HUGE, and there's no way it will fit in the car with a 351W because of it's front-to-back width. Not only that, but the BMR K-member requires that the rack be modified to fit. I pondered using the power steering rack from a 2005-10 Mustang, but the guys at the shop where we're doing this swap convinced me to try the manual steering rack from Flaming River first. I guess we'll see how this works out. Steering is going to be "high-effort", to say the least.

Driveshaft

We may be able to have my current aluminum driveshaft modified at the transmission end to accept a slip yoke - if the driveshaft is long enough. If not, we're gonna go with a steel one to reduce the cost, and at some point in the future, I'll have an aluminum one made.

Electrical/Instrumentation

When you perform this kind of engine swap in a S197, you automatically remove the ECU from the realm of "necessary hardware" to "annoying nanny electronics". In order to get a signal that the OEM tach can read, you have to figure out a way to mount a cranksaft trigger wheel to the harmonic balancer. Other things we're going to have to keep are the cylinder head temperature sensor (to control the electric cooling fan), and the A/C clutch wiring.

We're also going to wire up a throttle position sensor (thanks Innovate Motorsports) on the carburetor so that we have some hope of controlling the A/C clutch, as well as converting the alternator wiring to support the Gen3 1994 Mustang alternator.

The final electrical issue that might come up is the starting circuit at the ignition switch. The 2011+ Mustangs have a feature that allows you to turn and let go of the ignition switch, and it will continue to crank the engine until the engine starts. We don't yet know how this is going to affect the swap, but we anticipate it to be a minor issue.

Throttle

The late model cars have drive-by-wire setups which is completely incompatible with a carburetor. I've seen people do some pretty ghetto shit to change this out, but I figure using a Fox Mustang gas pedal would be the best option (I've never seen anyone do it on this swap). As far as a cable is concerned, we can either go with an OEM Fox cable, or a custom Lokar part. Both are about the same cost.

Fuel System

Fuel System - The fuel tank in the car sits under the rear seat, and straddles the transmission hump. The pump itself is on the driver's side and siphons fuel from the passenger side. Both sides have a fuel level sender, and the computer averages the signals it receives from these senders to determine the fuel level displayed by the gauge. Fuel is delivered at about 55 psi - much too high for a carburetor.

I'm going to drill a hole in the passenger side fuel hat and add a bulhead AN fitting so we can put in a return line, and disable the regulator on the OEM pump. Then, we'll run a 6AN host up to the engine compartment as a return line and connect it to an Aeromotive regulator. At that point, we should be able to regulate the pressure down to a nominal 6.5 psi, and the return line will return unused fuel to the passenger side of the fuel tank.

Hood Fitment

I honesltly don't know if the hood will fit after putting in the 427. I'm using an Air Gap intake on an already tall 351W block, so there are questions. I really hope it fits because I REALLY like the hood I have now, and don't really care for my other options. If I'm forced to change hoods, I'm going to go with an OEM hood, cut a holde in it, and add a '69 Boss 429 scoop.

Cooling

The shop guys think the OEM radiator should be big enough, so cooling modifications should be limited to figuring out hoses.

Advice - Water Pump Selection

Water pumps come in two flavors - standard direction, and reverse direction. If you're running a typical serpentine belt system, you want a *reverse* direction pump. Not only that, but you need to have the correct timing cover (the one that supports the reverse rotation pump). You can also run any cover you want as long as the water passage holes in the back of the water pump are round (a lot of people don't realize this).

In the interest of completeness of information, you CAN run a serpentine system with a standard rotation pump, but you'll be hard pressed to arrange the pullies and tensioners (in terms of brackets).

Advice - Weight Reduction

The car is already heavy enough, and adding an iron block motor to it ain't gonna help matters any. So, you should strive to reduce weight wherever possible. Since you'll probably be using a tubular k-member like I am, I won't bother mentioning that, but you can also reduce weight by replacing the radiator support, getting an aluminum flywheel, and an aluminum or carbon-fiber drive shaft. If the car is still too heavy, you can put in lighter seats, delete the rear seat, and other stuff. If the car is STILL too heavy get a less rubenesque girl friend.

Also, don't EVEN consider using iron heads/intake on your engine. A 351w with aluminum heads weighs less than a 289 with iron heads, not to mention aluminum heads lowers the center of gravity on the engine.

Advice - Accessories and Brackets

Fox Mustangs. That's essentially the answer - alternator bracket (with tensioner), and A/C (and power steering) brackets from a 1993 Fox-body Mustang are necessary to mount your accessories, especially if you intend to go with a serpentine belt.

Next, get a starter and a/c compressor for a 1993 Mustang, and an alternator for a 94 Mustang GT. The alternator is 130 amp, and is a bit larger than the earlier units, so some clearancing might be necessary on the OEM bracket.


Preparing for the Build - 03/08/2014

Since this is my daily driver (at the moment), I can't really afford to have the car languish at the shop for weeks at a time with no progress being made. Essentially, I want to be in an out in as little time as possible, not only because I want my car done, but because I don't want the guys at the shop to have to push it around for too long to make room for other cars. For these reasons, I wanted to be as prepared as possible so that we didn't have to wait more than a couple of days for shit I forgot to get (or that came as a surprise). This section will chronicle the purchase of parts, including pre-install pictures of said parts.

Shipping times vary from one supplier to the next. Keep in mind that I live in south/central Texas, so your shipping time may vary. Summit usually takes about three days (and if you order more than $99 worth of parts at a time, the shipping is free!), American Muscle takes seven days from the day the order was placed if you use their free shipping option.

I found a guy (Eric Zimmerman) that actually sells a video he made when doing his swap. Cost was $28 shipped. The video was made made in 2010 or so, and since then, there have been a few advancements in the S197 engine swap arena, so do your research. There may be better ideas out there by the time you try this swap.

Engine

By far, the engine is the most expensive component. I will have spent $12k on it when everything is said and done. If that doesn't make your asshole pucker, I don't know what will.

I have the 93 Mustang alternator bracket/tensioner and starter, a 94 Mustang 3G alternator, and a 93 Mustang starter. I also chose a timing cover that supports a reverse rotation water pump so I can use a serpentine belt system. I've also identified the A/C brackets I'm going to need, and discovered that we can make custom A/C lines ourselves.

I have a jet kit so we can adjust the carb, and I found a black MSD distributor cap to use instead of the red one that comes with the distributor.

When we get the engine back from the machine shop, there will be some final assembly issues to handle.

  • Bolting on the flywheel

  • Buying, installing accessory bracket studs

  • Attaching the crank trigger wheel

  • Adding accessory brackets, pullies, alternator, and a/c compressor to verify belt alignment

  • Installing spark plugs

  • Test-fitting headers (with bell housing bolted on)

  • Test-fitting transmission with bell-housing spacer

Transmission

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

The second most expensive part of this swap - the transmission. I'm changing to a 6-speed manual, and chose the Tremec Magnum XL kit as a basis (I ordered the kit without the driveshaft). This was necessary because the Magnum XL is made specifically for S197 Mustangs, and include a longer tailshaft housing to place the shifter in the appropriate location. The ony problem with the kit is that the bell housing is wrong. It will physically bolt up to the Windsor block, but it's meant for an 11-inch flywheel, and I'm using a 10.5 inch flywheel. This means I had to get an appropriate bell housing - my choice was a QuickTime RM8031, which created a whole other issue.

BellHousing Spacer

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

It turns out that the Quicktime housing is 15/16-inch shorter than the kit's housing, meaning I needed to have a spacer made to bring the engine end of the bellhousing closer to the end of the input shaft. I started the process of having the spacer made. The spacer cost $712 (including tax) because they spent almost 8 hours doing a CAD drawing for it. The spacer you see to the right is made from 1-inch aluminum plate. We're going to try to use it without milling it down to 15/16, but we probably will have to shim the throwout bearing a little to make that work.

If anyone else wants to do this swap (Windsor with Magnum XL), I'll be happy to sell you a spacer for much less than what I paid, say $375-400. The savings comes with you not having to pay for the CAD work.

Manual Transmission Console Finish Panel

The final issue regarding the transmission involves the center console. The panel that sits on top of the console in a manual transmisison car is different from the automatic version. I was hoping the chrome trim ring around the shifter boot was part of the shifter boot, but it is instead part of the panel itself (which I found out when I ordered the shifter boot from Ford). I found a finish panel on Ebay for $150 (they cost $235 new). You will also be able to find a panel in a salvage yard.

If you're wondering whether or not the OEM manual transmission can be made to bolt up to a Windsor, I cannot answer that question for you. I would advise you not to do it because of the remote-mounted shifter. It is a known weak point in the transmission. If you insist on using it, you will be the pioneer here, so document your process so that others may benefit.

Clutch Lines

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

Connecting the throwout bearing had a small technical challenge associated with it. I got an Exedy bearing, and it has a single line with a fitting that ends up facing the transmission and in fact almost touches it. This in and of itself is not a problem (we can either replace or unbend the tubing to get the fitting pointed in the right direction), but I needed to come up with a solution.

I had already ordered a stainless braided clutch line from American Muscle, and it has the expected male disconnect fittings on it. This meant that at the very least, I was missing the bleeder elbow (and retaining clips) used to connect the bearing to the clutch line. It was easy to find the appropriate elbow, and I was all set to buy it when I had a thought.

Steel braided line does not exactly promote bending at the tight radius you often need, and I was concerned that the line coming off the clutch pedal would loop too far into the engine compartment and look like crap, as well as risking touching the header. Not only that, but the natural position of the throwout bearing line is at the 1-o'clock position on the transmission, and it's position on my setup was going to be at the 7-o'clock position. This would end up consuming more of the line's available length. The SR Performance clutch line would not be adequate.

The solution comes from McLeod. I found out that they make a whole clutch line kit that uses AN adapters and fittings which makes for a much cleaner install at the clutch pedal. It allowed me to use a 90-degree AN4 male/female fitting at the pedal, and that solved both the loop problem and the line length problem at the same time. The kit's bleeder fitting will be used to connect the bearing to the line.

In the picture to the right, you can see the difference between the McCleod kit and the SR Performance kit. You may even notice that the McLeod line is AN4, where the SR Performance line is AN3. I don't know if this will make a difference in clutch finction, and I really don't have anything to compare it to since I'm switching from an automatic to a manual.

Exhaust

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

After much deliberation and hand-wringing, I ordered a set of mid-length headers from Accufab (#BT210), with 1-3/4 primaries, 3-inch collectors, and with flanges that use the wide bolt pattern on the AFR heads (that was an extra $40). I also ordered a generic X-pipe kit as well as a pair of Moroso spiral flow mufflers (they are NOT glass packs). The headers don't have flanges on them, so we're going to use v-band clamps to join them to the x-pipe.

Initially, we're going to dump the exhaust in front of the rear axle (it's faster and cheaper to do this). If I decide the car's "righteous thunder" is too much to bear while driving, I'll consider a Plan B. The primary effort though will be to simply get the car on the road. At this point, plan B is adding side-exit exhaust.

The only real fabrication involved includes the pipes that go between the header collectors and the X-pipe, the pipes between the x-pipe and the mufflers, and the pipes that go from the mufflers to the dump area.

Fuel System

Nothing done here yet except for ordering the parts. The plan is to plumb the passenger side fuel hat for a return line, disconnect the OEM regulator, and hope the Aeromotive under-hood fuel pressure regulator can handle the 55psi delivery of the OEM fuel pump.

Supporting Mods

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

Gas and Clutch Pedal - Because I'm changing to a manual transmission, I have to replace the brake pedal with a clutch/brake pedal assembly. I was fortunate enough to find an assembly on one of the forums (the part # is shown in the parts list at the bottom of this page), and it included the master cylinder reservoir. S197 clutches are hydraulic, and they share the brake fluid supply from the brake master cylinder, ao the master cylinder reservoir is both larger and provides a nipple onto which you attach a hose from the clutch pedal. Then, you run a line from the pedal to the throwout bearing.

Gas Pedal - The throttle mechanism in a S197 is "drive by wire", menaing the throttle is controlled elctronically via the computer. As you probably know, a carburetor requires a mechanical connection to the pedal. To accomodate this requirement, I'v decided to try using a Fox-body gas pedal, which utilizes a cable to work the carb.

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

A/C - It takes three brackets to mount an A/C compressor to a Windsor motor. They're about $50 each if you get them off ebay. $150 for freaking OEM brackets? Beyond that, I need a compressor (from a 93 Mustang) and the manifolds that connect it to the A/C lines. I figure we can make our own A/C lines using steel braided line and appropriate fittings (I found that Jegs has a bunch of fittings) and just connect it up to the existing A/C hardware already in the car.

I'm going to use a compressor from a 93 Fox, and since I don't have any of the necessary parts for mounting and connection, I have to scrounge around for them. Brackets are 'spensive (we already established that), but another part I have to concern myself with are the manifolds that sit on top of the compressor. Guess what - they're expensive too - if you can find them. Of course, Ford no longer sells them, so I have to find a used set, which probably means finding a Fox in the salvage yard that still has the compressor in it, and hoping it still has the manifolds. I found a set on Ebay, but I don't want to pay $80 for something so small/minor.

Other Stuff

I found some polished stainless steel "427" emblems on EBay. I haven't decided yet whether to put them on the hood, or the fenders, or whether I'm going to even use them. They're intended for a Chevy, but that's pretty much the only 427 emblem you're going to be able to find that looks even close to appropriate because all of the Ford ones are - well - not. My plan is to remove the "Powered By Ford" emblems and put the 427 emblems in their place.

I already have a 3-gauge A-pillar pod (with three gauges in it - duh), and needed a place to put the new air/fuel gauge. I hate the idea of a vent pod, but I got a used one off one of the forums for $25. One of these days, I'm gonna move all of the gauges to a center-dash pod, akin to the ones that came out for the early S197s (they don't make one for the 2010+, so I'll have to do it myself). There should be room for four gauges since that area between the raised dash sections is wider.


The Swap


I hope to make progress reports once or twice per week.

06 Jul 2014 - Initial Status

At this juncture, I'm still waiting for the engine to be finished by the machine shop (seven weeks and counting), and I should have the transmission spacer sometime this week. When I get the motor, I'll starting posting updates as they happen.

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

19 Jul 2014 - Engine Porn!

The machine shop sent me a picture of the short block yesterday. It's from a cell phone, so it's kinda small and a little grainey, but it's a picture nonetheless. I ordered pushrods a few days ago, and should get them in a couple of days. Once I do, I'll run 'em over to the shop and I should have my finished engine by the middle/end of next week.

The really good news is that the heads did not need to be milled. The motor that they came off of was in the process of shredding the ring lands on the pistons, and when we pulled the heads, there were some artifacts on the flat part of the combustion chamber. These artifacts turned out to be flash aluminum from the pistons (material was melted and flung), and peeled off the head like decal material. What this means is that I'm going to be as close as possible to my target compression ration of 10.5:1.

Other updates

  • I found out that the OEM brace that goes from the radiator to the K-member is not compatible with the BMR K-member, so I had to order their brace.

  • I remembered that I still had not ordered the accesory studs for mounting the A/C and alternator to the front of the engine.

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

22 Jul 2014 - 427 IN DA HOUSE!

Well, there she sites, waiting for her first kill orders. I took the pushrods to the shop and sat their shooting the shit with the owner while he installed 'em and buttoned up the top end. He seems to have enjoyed the build, and says the quality of the parts was superb. Final static copression ration is 10.5:1. The next step is attaching the water pump pullies, and accessory brackets, and test-fitting the headers and transmission.

Other Updates:

  • We were talking about the crank trigger wheel, and happened to look at the crank pulley I got (in a kit). It turns out that despite the fact that I got a kit for a 79-93 Mustang, ALL of the pullies in the kit were wrong for my application. I ordered a replacement set and they should be here next week. The parts list has been updated to reflect this change.

  • There was a bit of discussion regarding coating vs painting the headers, and the shop guys kept telling me that coating cost about $800, which severely dampened my enthusiasm to go that route. So, I did some research on local coating companies and found this place called Cradin Industries in Boerne who gave me a ball-park price of $225. That's definitely a lot more digestable as far as cost is concerned. They have a selection of colors, and I think I'm gonna go with black.

  • I found a guy on the internet that made his own crank trigger wheel with a waterjet. Going that way would have cost me about $400 (minimal material cost, but $140 minimum cut charge and an unknown amount of cad work), but I wanted to put it out there for folks that might be able to get a deal on this kind of thing. I hadn't even considered that option.

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

26 Jul 2014 - Test Fitting

I spent the day bolting parts up to the motor to check for clearances. First up were the K-member and headers- I needed to verify that the headers would clear the K-member and that the flanges on the headers were going to mount flush to the cylinder heads. The results are that everything that shouldn't touch, doesn't touch. The only question now is whether or not the collectors hit the chassis/firewall.

The second test fitting was more to acquire measurements and try to determine if the motor with the carb and air cleaner would fit under my current hood. First, we measured from the top of the k-member flange to the top of the air cleaner, and then measured the car. The results are in, and it looks promising/like crap.

One note: In order to bolt the motormounts to the block on the driver's side, we had to notch the mount so that it would clear a water passage bung on the #6 cylinder. This is only necessary on Dart blocks (stock blocks do not have the bung).

Transmission: When we bolted the bellhousing to the transmission, we found that my shiney new spacer was just barely touching the face of the transmission at the bottom on the passenger side. The spacer appeared to bolt all the way up, but to be safe, I removed some material from the spacer.

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

01 Aug 2014 - The Swap Begins - Day 01

Well, the day has finally arrive. I spent the night before removing parts that were going to be in the way:

  • Passenger seat

  • Harness bar

  • Rear seat

  • Fender liners

  • Radiator brace and shield

  • Hood

  • Front bumper cover

  • Front bumper cushion

Today, we got the old motor/transmission out, the K-member/steering rack mounted, and the front suspension put back on the car. The real surprise is that we got the motor in there to check out clearances. The new engine makes the engine bay look HUGE! Today's issues and thoughts:

  • The BMR K-member was missing a lot of what the included paperwork said was supplied with the kit. It turns out that we didn't need these parts, but still, the parts list provided with the K-member should be correct. Further, the instructions were pretty much useless. They could really stand to have more illustrations.

  • The bolts that came with the K-member for the steering rack wouldn't go through the holes in the K-member (probably because of the powdercoating), so we had to run a drill bit through them.

  • When re-assembling your suspension onto the K-member, install the lower control arms FIRST, and then the steering rack. I can guarantee you won't be able to install them in reverse order.

  • I'm glad I got the manual steering rack, because there's no way in hell the EPAS, or even a 05-09 power rack will fit this application without heavy modification of the K-member and/or oil pan.

  • One of the Flaming River steering rack mounting brackets needed to be clearanced so that it would actually allow the intended adjustment. Some careful sanding allowed that issue to be resolved. It was just plain sloppy machine work on Flaming River's part.

  • We decided to use the Fox Mustang heater tube assembly instead of running all-rubber heater hosts the length of the engine. LateModelRestoration sells them new for $80. Should have the part by 06 August.

  • There was some discussion regarding the activation of the radiator fan by the computer (based on engine temperature and whether or not the A/C was on), and the inital thought was to utilize the cylynder head temperature sensor from the original engine. It's a dry sensor, meaning it doesn't project into a water passage, so my thought was to have a piece of billet aluminum cut to bolt to the back of the head and then drill/tap that block to accomodate the sensor. While that was the best solution for THAT sensor, we decided to use the Fox Mustang sensor instead, because it wouldn't require any fabrication.

  • The completed motor does indeed clear my current hood.

  • The Steeda bump-steer kit fit just great on the Flaming River steering rack (there was some concern about the possibility that the thhread pitch might be wrong).

  • I kinda halfway decided that I need to get a tubular radiator support. Maybe later.

  • This swap is going to require heavy modification of the OEM wiring harness. More on that as we get there.

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

02 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 02

What a day. If yesterday was an amazing day of "shit just fits", today was the exact opposite. We encountered issue after issue, with few things that could be claimed as victories.

Pedals...

  • The old pedals came out without a problem, and the new clutch/brake pedal went in with relative ease.

  • As expected, the gas pedal gave us some heartache. We started with the Fox Mustang gas pedal, which amazingly enough mounted right onto the two left studs used by the OEM pedal. The problem is that this positioned the pedal too high and to the left of where it actually needed to be. The answer was to fabricate an adapter plate (we used a shueet of 1/8-inch thick aluminum) that utilized the original three mounting studs, and still allow us to reposition the Fox pedal in a more appropriate location.

  • Once the gas pedal was mounted, we could drill the holes in the firewall for the throttle cable. There's a hump in the firewall that protrudes into the engine bay, and the throttle cable ended up just below the hump. We got a stock replacement manual transmission throttle cable at O'reilly Auto Parts, and it's exactly the right length.

  • When I bought the clutch/brake pedal assembly (came off a 2005-2009 car), it came with the manual transmission master cylinder reservoir. After getting the pedals mounted, we went to install the reservoir, and found that it's too wide, and as a result, it prevents the use of the vacuum fitting for the power brake booster. I ordered a new reservoir from Tousley and it should be here in a few days. This is not something that will hold up doing other stuff for the swap. In the picture sequence at the right, the last picture shows the reservoir with a red arrow pointing to where the vacuum fitting should be.

Final evaluation - the Fox gas pedal is probably the best/cheapest way to go.

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

Pulleys, Brackets and Studs...

  • Because we want to retain the OEM instrumentation, we needed a way to trigger the tach, so we acquired a crankshaft trigger wheel made for a 302 Bronco (part number is in the pass list). This wheel is configured to slip onto the end of the crankshaft behind the balancer, but we can't have it that way.

    The wheel has to be modified so that it can be bolted onto the front of the balancer, which requires some moderate machining. For our application, we had to make the center hole large enough to slip over the raised boss on the balancer, and then drill four holes in it so you can mount the pulley.

  • Because we're using the crank trigger weheel, we had to mill the crank pulley down to compensate for the thickness of the wheel. We used a BBK aluminum pulley set, and there was plenty of material on the bottom of the pulley. Done, and done.

  • The alternator bracket is a OEM Fox Mustang part, which includes the tensioner. We got it on the motor and test fit the alternator (from a 94 Mustang). Being larger than the Fox alternator, it required some clearancing of the bracket. A support rib had to be removed, which wasn't a problem.

  • We mounted the A/C brackets, and found that the large bracket that bolts to the water pump was the wrong bracket. It was for a 302, and I needed the one for a 351w swap. American Muscle to the rescue. I ordered the bracket and it will be here in 10 days. This bracket will not hold up other parts of the swap.

  • I bought $85 ARP header studs, and after installing them, we realized that the spark plugs could not be removed. Double FUCK. Wasted money. I'm still going to use studs on the end to aid in header attachment, but the rest of the fasteners will be bolts.

  • AFR heads have two sets of exhaust flange holes - a narrow pattern, and a wide pattern. My headers were built to use the "wide" pattern which means the primaries don't have to be pinched at the flange, and bolts are much easier to get to. We found out that the wide-pattern holes are drilled crooked, so if all of the studs are installed, the header won't slide over them.

  • A small issue also cropped up regarding the headers themselves. The #4 pipe isn't completely welded at the flange (there's a hole in the weld). It's going to require repair before we send it out for coating.

Engine Mounting...

Once we got the pedals in and the pullies and brackets installed, we dropped the motor into the car and

  • The steering shaft clears the headers (minor victory).

  • The headers clear the firewall and floor with room to spare. However, the passenger side hits the motor plate and bell housing. This is going to require some dimpling to gain the necessary clearance. I see judciious use of a ballpeen hammer in my future

  • We slapped the carb on the motor, and test-fitted the air cleaner, and the back of it hits the firewall. That's unfortunate, because the alternative is the round Chinese air cleaner I bought in the event that we had hood clearance issues.

Transmission...

This was the day's biggest nightmare.

  • The throwout bearing is almost all the way extended, so we need a spacer for it. The problem is that we don't know how thick it needs to be, so I need to get a few if various thicknesses.

  • The shifter is in the trans tunnel hole, but it's uncomfortably close to the back of the hole. We're goint to mill 5/16 inche off the bell housing spacer, and move the motor forware 3/8-1/2 inch. That will gain us some room and hopefully solve the next problem.

  • The cross member that cam in the kit doesn't line up AT ALL with any of the holes in the frame.

  • The RAM flywheel does NOT come with clutch plate guide pins (it requires three). Luckily, a local dealer had some.

  • It looks like we'll be able to utilize my existing aluminum driveshaft because it's longer than it needs to be. Of course, we won't know for sure until the transmission is in the car.

As a result of the transmission problems, we couldn't measure for the driveshaft, build the X-pipe, or connect the exhaust. We're contemplating moving the engine forward 1/4-1/2 inch to further help with the transmission placement problem, but we have VERY LITTLE room to work with because the water pump pulley bolts are only about 5/8-3/4 inches away from the radiator fan. We could probably get another 1/8 inch of clearance if we grind the bolt heads on the water pump pulley.

I took the wiring harnesses home and spent three hours stripping the tape and protective wrapping from the engine compartment wiring harness. We're going to identify and remove any wiring that isn't needed for this swap such as injectors, cam sensors, other stuff like that.

06 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 03

We had the transmission spacer milled to 11/16 to bring the transmission further forward. This gave us a better position for the shifter, and brought the throwout bearing into a better (but not optimal) position. To handle the TOB issue, I ordered five throwout bearing spacers (listed in the parts list below) and ended up only needing three.

The final transmission issue regarded the transmission crossmember. There are two sets of holes you can use, and the final position of the transmission didn't allow the use of either set. So, we drilled our own 1/2-inch holes in the cross member, and used those.

We were able to measure for the driveshaft, and came up with 42-1/4 inches. This is significantly shorter than the stock driveshaft length, so we're going to have my aluminum driveshaft shortened.

07 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 04

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

Put the rest of the bolts into the bell housing, installed the driver's seat, and tried to install the center console panel. The shifter rubs the left side of the hole in the trim panel, so we're going to grind down the raised boss on the shifter, and maybe use a dremel on the plastic trim hold ing the shifter boot in.

I forgot to take the slip yoke home with me yesterday, so I'll be dropping off the driveshaft today for shortening.

Before we massaged the passenger side header for bellhousing clearance, we bolted it up with a gasket, and discovered that it in fact does not hit the bell housing, so we're going to leave it alone. Were planning on building the exhaust system today, and maybe even run the fuel return line.

08 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 05

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

The OEM fuel pump delivers so much fuel under such high pressure, that we have to convert the fuel system to include a return line. You have two options here - buy a $750 fuel hat, or do what I did - find a way to add a return line to then existing fuel hat.

Parts required are a -6AN bulkhead fitting (part number in parts list below), and a 90-degree -6AN fitting for the fuel line.

The way I did it was to add the return line to the passenger side fuel hat because that hat simply has a siphon line and a fuel level sensor on it (the driver's side hat is where the pump(s) live, and we don't want to take a chance on messing up that hat). Both fuel hats are under the back seat.

To remove the fuel hat you have to remove the locking ring, and remove the ring from the hole in the floor. This is gonna be tricky without removing the tank because the holes in the floor are too small to allow the ring to come out. We used channelocks to bend the rim of the hole up a little, but it would have been better to use a nibbler or grinder to remove about 1/8 ench from one side of the hole.

After you get the collar off, the fuel pump lifts out far enough to release the siphon tube (it's a quick-release fitting). Be careful not to bend the fuel level sensor rod.

Once the fuel hat is out, you can drill a 9/16 hole on the low side of the fuel hat, next to the connector (refer to picture with arrow).

After the hole is drilled, the fitting will need to be threaded into it. Don't forget the nylon washers. Also, do NOT use silicon sealant - it will foul your fuel tanks. Thread the nut onto the bulkhead fitting, tighten, and you're done. Simply reinstall your fuel hat (don't forget to reconnect the siphon tube!).

As you can see from the second picture, the 90-degree fitting is high enough to clear the electrical connection, yet not so high that it will interfere with putting the fuel hat cover back on.

09 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 06

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

It only took one day to have the driveshaft modified, and we put it in the car as soon as we got it back. After we got it installed, we realized that we hadn't taken into consideration the expanding knuckle at the pinion end (this is the end we should have had cut off during the shortening process). So, we're going to remove the dust boot and weld the expansion join at the best possible point, and see what happens. As it sits right now, the shaft can "get long" and could possibly eat up the tailshaft housing seal, so we need to fix that.

We modified the air cleaner base so that the cobra oval part would sit about an inch further forward than it normally does. The only problem is that the back of the air cleaner rests on the firewall lip. A taller filter would help (and they are in fact available), but I don't know if I have the hood clearance available yet, so I'll only spend that $60 if I can use the filter.

10 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 07

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

We got a crapload of stuff done today (pictures of most of the stuff is to the right):

  • Exhaust - we got the exhaust all welded up. The 3-inch X-pipe kit I got was not conducive to forward progress, so we decided to neck down to 2.5-inch and use the BBK catted x-pipe as a baseis and just tie in to the rest of the existing system. Eventually, I'm going to convert to 3-inch, but in the name of expediancy, we went with this solution. My concern is that it won't be loud enough. I don't want my car to sound like it just rolled off the assembly line - I want it to sound like it DESTROYED the assembly line.

  • Fuel return line - Other than the sheer physical pain in the ass of assembling a push-lock fitting onto the end of a hose, this went smooth. We lower the tank so that it's resting on the driveshaft, secured the fitting onto the fuel hat, and snaked the return line over the tank and down the driver's side of the car along with the existing fuel feed line, and came into the engine compartment through a large pre-existing oval hole under the hood hinge.

  • Fuel pressure regulator - First, we had to bend the bracket that came with the regulator to a 90-degree angle. Next, we used a nutsert at the midpoint between the firewall and the shock tower (on the driver's side), and mounted the regulator. This means we only have one fuel line traversing the engine bay (to feed the carb).

  • Dip stick - The headers prevented us from running anything resembling a straight dip stick, so we came up with putting a single sweeping bend into the tube and having it exit in front of the #5 header primary tube (picture in the slide show). We still have to come up with a way to secure it, but it's in, and usable, and that's what counts.

  • Radiator - When we finally got the transmission in and bolted up, we realized that the water pump pulley boss just barely touched the back of the radiator fan. Our original plan was to remove the top radiator brackets and elongate the holes, but we we were surprised to see that the holes already had a small amount of play in them, so we merely loosened the bolts, shoved the radiator as far forwarward as we could, and tightened the bolts back down. That resulting in about 3/16 inch clearance between the tip of the pump and the fan.

  • Radiator hoses - Fox body hoses fit without modification. Our plans for mounting the expansion tank include tee-ing off the bottom hose so that we can plug the tank into that hose.

  • Heater plumbing - This was made cleaner and easier by using a Fox-body heater tube assembly and modifying (cutting them to be short enough) the original heater lines that connected to the firewall. At the front of the heater tube assembly, we used a Fox body hose. Since we're using an aftermarket intake, we had to re-bend the bracket on the heater tube assembly so we could bolt it to the intake.

  • Carb mounting - I added a 1-inch spacer (to get the addiional vacuum fitting for the power brakes), and of course, this negated the viablility of my original carb stud purchase, so we got allen bolts instead. We may still have to remove the spacer in the name of hood clearance - I don't know yet. When connecting the Fox Mustang throttle cable, we realized that the throttle ball on the carb linkage is to small, and the cable pops off the carb. We're still thinkin' on that one.

  • MSD module - We decided to mount the MSD module as high as possible on the passengener side floor board inside the car. We'll have to lengthen the wirse, but that's okay. It will be a cleaner install.

13 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 08

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

Expansion tank - The expansion tank would not fit in its original location, so we fabricated a bracket and relocated the tank to the driver's side fender (where the old air box used to be).

The expansion tank has three hose outlets. There's a 3/4-inch outlet on the bottom of the tank that tee'd into the heater hose at the front of the engine. For this swap, we will be tee'ing into the bottom radiator hose (we don't have the tee yet, but it's on the way from JaguarsThatRun.com). The OEM overflow hose back to the radiator was cut, and an aluminum tube was bent and inserted between the two pieces. We routed this new hose assembly under the fender lip. The last small hose will be routed across the front of the engine and connected to the Fox heater tube assembly.

Ignition coil - We mounted the coil on a custom bracket under the expansion tank just in front of the shock tower.

A/C compressor - The new 351w swap front bracket arrived and we bolted it on, only to find out that it doesn't line up. We had to make the four holes that attached the bracket to the water pump so we had some adjustment. Still, we discovered that because we weren't running a power steering pump, the bracket pulls the front of the compressor down. I'm in the process of trying to find a 3.5-inch aluminum spacer to resolve the issue.

Plug wires - I ordered custom wires from Ford Racing, meaning I had to assemble the distributor cap end of the wires. This caused all kinds of amusement in the shop with claims of a 2-hour process, but I've done these before. It took about 45 minutes, and I thoroughly enjoyed doing it.

Throttle linkage - The throttle link was giving us a problem because the ball on the carb was too small to retain the throttle cable. I ordered a QuickFuel throttle ball kit from Summit, and it contained the correct size throttle ball, so this issue has been resolved. We had originally tried a Holley throttle ball kit (from O'Reilly Auto Parts), and it did not have an appropriate ball, so don't waste your money on that.

Other updates - Received the new brack master cylinder reservoir and some additional -6AN fittings for the fuel system. We're still waiting on the Kool Tool push-lock machine to assist in fuel line assembly.

14 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 09

Not much done today. We connected the clutch line and removed the carb spacer so that the air cleaner would clear the firewall lip better.


15 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 10

Installed the radiator hose tee and put the fittings on the fuel lines. We're waiting on a plug for the un-used port on the fuel pressure regulator to finish the fuel system, and Chris (the shop owner) wants to fab up a fitting for the fuel pressure gauge. I hope to hear from the coating place today so I can go get the headers.

16 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 11

Click image for full size version, and more pics.

Innovate Motorsports air/fuel gauge - Installed in a Roush vent pod. I didn't want to use a vent pod, but since all of my a-pillar pods are in use, and the pigtail on the gauge isn't long enough, I couldn't mount oit anywhere else.

Headers - Got the headers back from Cradin Industries, and installed them right away. The shop guys are disappointed in my color selection (black), but the coating guy said black was the best coating, and besides, I think it looks great in the engine compartment.

A/C Compressor - Made a spacer to replace the the missing power steering bracket, and buttoned that assembly up.

Delays

- I was expecting the AN plugs (for the fuel pressure regulator) to get here yesterday, but according to UPS, it won't be until next week, so we have yet more delays for the fuel system.

17 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 12

Exhaust - Welded the O2 sensor bungs onto the X-pipe, and installed the X-pipe. Done, and done.

MSD - Installed and wired up the ignition module and coil.

Electrical/power harness - Modified and installed the OEM power harness. This harness is responsible for getting power to the under-hood fuse/relay box, the starter, the alternator, the A/C compressor, and the power-steering rack. Since we deleted the rack, we could also delete the wiring associated with it. We ended up keeping just five or six of the 18-gauge wires from a bundle of maybe 15-18 wires. I need to get a pigtail to connect to the alternator (regulator pigtail).

Electrical/engine control harness - We identified all of the connectors and we'll be removing all unnecessary connectors in the next week.

At this point, the battery is back in the car, and the car is almost electrically ready to start. We're just waiting on some fittings to finish up the nuts and bolts of things, and we'll be ready to add fluids and fire it up.

20 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 13

It's ALIVE! We started it for the first time today, and immediately, we all decided it was too quiet.


21 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 14

We worked on electrical stuff.

  • We got the alternator hooked up and charging the battery

  • The radiator fan is working

  • The key now starts the car

  • The tach works

Issues:

  • We had to electrically connect the automatic trans to the car (and put it in park) to get the engine to start with the key. We're not sure yet what we have to do to bypass this circuit.

  • ALL of the lights are on in the instrument cluster when the engine is running. Some we know why (seat belt, air bag, traction control, oil pressure), the others need to be turned off somehow.

  • We discovered a water leak. On small block Fords, there's a backing plate on the water pump. This plate is connected to the water pump with a couple of screws. It seems that the screws on my water pump (bought at Summit Racing) the screws are too tall, and they're keeping the pump from sealing all the way. This means we have to dismantle the entire front of the engine to remove the pump and fix the problem. This is about two-four hours of work, and everything else is on hold until it's fixed.

22 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 15

We worked on more electrical stuff.

  • We got the car to start with the key again. We had to bypass sim-start because that somehow had involved the state of the transmission, and we were simply tired of dickin' with it.

  • We did a temporary hookup on the transmission speed sensor, and tested the speedo - SUCCESS!

  • We ran permanent wires for the transmission (reverse lights, speed, and reverse lockout.

  • The tach still works.

We're planning on putting the body work back on the car once the wiring is done and we've fixed the water pump issue we discovered the day before.


26 Aug 2014 - Swap Day 19

  • We put the hood and bumper cover back on the car. The hood clears the air cleaner with INCHES to spare. WOOT!

  • We took off the Magnaflow Street mufflers and installed a set of Flowmaster Outlaws. The car sounds amazing.

  • We decided to wire the fan directly into the fan relay so that it comes on when the key is turned on.

  • We decided to use a NOS WOT switch to turn off the A/C compressor, but since the A/C isn't connected yet, we figured we'd wait to install the WOT switch.

  • Issue (resolved) - the car refused to be refueled, and would go from 1/2 tank to showing empty in a split second. We messed around with vent lines for a while and couldn't really understand why it wouldn't allow us to refuel.

    So me and Chris stayed at the shop late (until about 9:15) on Saturday, removed BOTH fuel hats, and found that the tank was about 3/4 full. We decide to try moving the return line to the driver's side fuel hat, and convert the passenger side fitting into a vent line. We removed about five gallons of fuel from the passenger side tank, made the required changes, and slapped it all back together. When we tried putting the gas back into the car, it took every drop without complaining. I drove the car all weekend and ran it down to 1/4 tank, and went back to the gas station, to make sure the entire system was working, and am happy to report that not only did it take gas as expected, the fuel sender showed a full tank.

We're calling the swap done at this point because the car is most certainly drivable. I've been to two car meets over the weekend, and the car has been very well received. We still have to tune the carb, get the A/C lines made, and put it on the dyno, but it's a car again.



Kudos and Call-Outs

No project of this magnitude can possibly be a one-man operation. Hell, even Overhaulin' farms out their interior, pwer train, chrome, etc.. This section is dedicated to those who helped, assisted, and otherwise encouraged me to proceed with this insane project.

People:

  • SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) - Without her blessing, NONE of ths would have been possible, at least not so early after deciding that I wanted to do it.

  • Two Ten Performance - Chris and JR have been great. They kicked the can down the road for me at a brisk pace, and Chris was always more interested in doing it right rather than doing it fast (for the sake of "fast"). Without these guys skill and dedication, this swap would never have happened, and I'm pretty certain it wouldn't have come out nearly as nice.

  • John Woodall - This guys did some pretty amazing fabrication work, and was always thinking outside the box.

  • Chuck at the bike place - He graciously allowed the use of his drill press to drill new holes in the transmission cross member

  • Tuning By James - James is changing the tune to re-map some parameters so that the ECU plays nice with the new powerplant.

Local Companies:

  • Central Texas Motorsports - John (owner/proprieter) assembly my engine, and did an out-fucking-standing job.

  • Clark's - Mike milled my transmission spacer to a better width for me - and provided same-day service - can't beat that.

  • Cradin Industries - Awesome coating company, fast and reasonably priced.

  • Drive Shafts Unlimited - they shortened/balanced my drive shaft - had the shaft back just one day after dropping it off.

  • River City Industries - These guys water-jetted my transmission spacer

Parts sources in alphabetical order:

  • Accufab (headers)
  • American Muscle (motor mounts)
  • AutoZone (small stuff)
  • Bear Lake Ford (formerly Tousely Ford)
  • D&D Performance (transmission kit)
  • Denny's Driveshaft (drive shaft yoke)
  • Ford Strokers (rotating assembly)
  • Fox Mustang Resoration (A/C brackets)
  • Innovate Motorsports (A/F gauge and TPS)
  • LateModel Restoration (some Fox stuff)
  • Mustangs Plus (some Fox stuff)
  • O'Reilly Auto Parts (starter, radiator hoses, throttle cable, belt)
  • Quality Fasteners (bolts and stuff)
  • Summit Racing (by FAR, got the most stuff from these guys)

Actual Parts List

The following is a list of the parts purchased, including the part#, manufacturer, and source. As I get more stuff, this list will grow. Alternatively, parts that end up not being used will be removed from the list with approprate commentary as to why that part wasn't used. The ultimate goal is to list all of the parts that I actually used to get the car going.

Since parts prices change with regularity, it would be pointless to discuss individual prices, but I will say that I've spend aboout $20k on parts alone. You can definitely do this cheaper by going with a stock block, but at that point, you're realisticaly limited to nothing bigger than a 408. You can also save some bucks by going with a cast crank/rods, cheaper heads, and as much used stuff as you can scrape together.

Parts List
Description Manufacturer Source
Engine Long Block
  DRT-31365235 SHP block, 9.5 deck, 4.125 bore Dart Summit
  205 heads w/ 1.7 rockers AFR Used
  Rotating assembly (forged, h-beam, int bal) RPM FordStrokers
  ARP-154-1001 Cam bolts ARP Summit
  ARP-154-7901 Oil pump driveshaft ARP Summit
  ARP-254-4703 Head studs ARP Summit
  ATI-950234 Crank bolt and washer ARP Summit
  CCA-7138 Timing Set COMP Summit
  FMS-M-6253-A50 Lifter Kit Ford Racing Summit
  FMS-M-6500-R302H Hyd Roller Lifters Ford Racing Summit
  MEL-M83 Oil Pump Melling Summit
  MEL-MF126 Camshaft Thrust Plate Melling Summit
  SUM-G1583 Freeze Plug Kit Summit Summit
  DUR-351HP Cam bearings Durabond Summit
  TFS-51403003 Cam Hyd Roller TrickFlow Summit
  FEL-2921 Rear main seal Fel-Pro Summit
  FMS-M-6051-R351 Head gaskets Ford Racing Summit
  MOR-24514 Oil pump pickup Moroso Summit
  CCA-7960-16 Pushrods Comp Summit

External Engine Parts
  XW1Z12A227AC Crankshaft trigger wheel Ford EBay
  Timing Chain Cover Ford EBay
  FEL-TCS45449 Timing cover gaskets Fel-Pro Summit
  MOR-20-520 Oil pan Moroso Summit
  MOR-25970 Dipstick Moroso Summit
  MIL-81310 Oil pan studs Milodon Summit
  CTR-88-650 Oil pan gasket Canton Summit
  PIO-872034 Harmonic balancer Pioneer Summit
  SUM-312594 Water pump Summit Summit
  FMS-M-12270-A302 Distributor hold-down Ford Racing Summit
  Adjustable Timing Pointer Ford Racing Summit
  C2OZ-9B339-A Oil press sender extension Scott Drake Summit
  14434 Thermostat housing (90-degree) UNK Mustangs Plus
  2377ERL Dual remote filter mount Earl's Amazon
  111 Spin-on oil filter adapter PermaCool Amazon
  2001-10-BL 10AN Straight hose ends (4x) Fragola Amazon
  4816-10050-BL 10AN-1/2 NPT adapters (4x) Fragola Amazon
  204510-BL 10AN 45-deg hose ends (2x) Fragola Summit
  LRS-9424BB Heater tube assembly Ford? LateModelRestoration

External Engine Parts (Accessories)
  93 Mustang alt bracket w/ tensioner Ford EBay
  1994 Mustang alternator (G3) Used Used
  1993 Mustang starter Used Used
  LRS-8501AHDW Water pump studs/bolts ARP LateModel Restoration
  41783001 A/C head bracket Ford FoxMustangRestoration
  41682003 A/C small bracket Ford FoxMustangRestoration
  4979009 Clutch harness connector UNK FoxMustangRestoration
  MMOCC-RB Oil catch can Mishimoto Ebay
  180-degree thermostat Stant Summit
  50579 351W Swap A/C Bracket FRPP AmericanMuscle
  K060725 Serpentine belt Gates O'Reilly
  38006 Idler pulley Gates O'Reilly
  HP3910 Regulator connector pigtail UNK Full Service Auto Parts

Intake & Fuel System
  EDL-7581 RPM Air Gap intake Edelbrock Summit
  FEL-1262 Intake gaskets Fel-Pro Summit
  ARP-154-2001 Intake Bolts ARP Summit
  13301 Fuel presssure regulator Aeromotive Amazon
  QFT-BDQ-850 850cfm carburetor QuickFuel Summit
  FRA-200106-BL Straight pushlok hose end (x4) Fragola Summit
  FRA-209006-BL 90-degree pushlok hose end (x2) Fragola Summit
  FRA-481666-BL 3/8 NPT-to-flare adapter (x3) Fragola Summit
  FRA-483106-BL Bulkhead adapter Fragola Summit
  FRA-204506-BL 45-degree -6AN hose end Fragola Summit
  Carb studs (1.5-inch and 2-inch) Spectre Autozone
  5202 Gauge mounting cup> AutoMeter Summit
  SUM-G2932 Fuel pressure gauge Summit Summit
  SUM-G2960 -4AN fuel gauge line Summit Summit
  SUM-220101B Carb fuel line kit Summit Summit
  RTD-TPS-1001 Throttle position sensor Innovate Motorsport Innovate Motorsport
  4845 Air/fuel gauge kit Innovate Motorsport Summit
  SUM-210230 Carb jet kit (64-90) Summit Summit
  CG-807-4L3Z-9276-AA Fuel hat gasket (2x) Ford Tousley
  PCV Valve Fram Summit

Ignition
  FMS-M-12259-M302 Spark plug wires Ford Racing Summit
  MSD-85840 Distributor MSD Summit
  8207 Coil MSD Summit
  6421 6AL2 Ignition Module MSD Summit
  ALL81345 Wire separator (2x) Allstar Summit
  84083 Distributor cap (black) MSD Summit
  R5671A-7 Spark Plugs NGK Summit

Engine Dress-up
  M-6583-W427B 427 Ribbed Valve Covers Ford Racing Amazon
  M-9600-C302 Cobra Air Cleaner Ford Racing Amazon
  FEL-VS13264T Valve cover gaskets Fel-Pro Summit
  ARP-100-7504 Valve Cover Bolt Kit ARP Summit
  BBK-1553 Pulley set (alt/crank/water pump) BBK Summit

Exhaust
  BT-210 midlength headers (1-3/4 prim, 3" coll) Accufab Andys Autosport
  FEL-1487 Header gaskets Fel-Pro Summit
  BIG-53623FLT X-pipe kit (3-inch) Flowtech Summit
  SUM-694300 V-band clamps (stainless)(2x) Summit Summit
  PYE-HVC24 band clamps (stainless)(12x) Pypes Summit

Interior
  Fox-body gas pedal Ford EBay
  S197 Brake/clutch pedal assy Ford Forum
  S197 Manual trans master cyl reservoir Ford Forum
  BR3Z-7277-B Shifter boot Ford Tousley
  CR33-63045B44-BB3AM6 Console finish panel Ford EBay

Transmission
  T56 Magnum XL transmission Tremec D&D Performance
  RM8031 Bell Housing (w/ motor plate) QuickTime Summit
  100547 Throwout bearing Exedy American Muscle
  3-3-5961X 1350 Slip yoke Spicer Denny's Driveshaft
  F1465268 1350 Pinion Flange Yoke Neapco Denny's Driveshaft
  RAM-2529 Aluminum flywheel RAM Summit
  MCL-75107 Clutch Kit McLeod Summit
  MCL-139252 Clutch line kit McLeod Summit
  EAR-AT921104ERL -4AN 90-deg fitting Earl's Summit
  Bellhousing spacer Fabricated RiverCity
  10.5-18x60 Grade 10.9 bolts (8x) UNK Quality Fasteners
  9R3Z-2K478-C Brake Master Cyl Reservoir Ford Tousley Ford
  D1FZ-6397-B Clutch plate guide (3x) Ford Jordan Ford
  RAM-598 0.187 Throwout bearing spacer (3x) RAM Summit

Mounting and Steering
  FLA-FR1515 Manual steering rack Flaming River Summit
  FLA-FR1709DD Steering rack u-joint Flaming River Summit
  BMR-KM012H K-Member BMR Summit
  BMR-CB004H Radiator support brace BMR Summit
  94330 Solid motor mounts UNK American Muscle